'Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the ranges.'- Rudyard Kipling
There are few if any adventure treks in the Himalaya to match the Chadar winter expedition for sheer, awe inspiring beauty, and none to match it in terms of day to day challenge and excitement.
The frozen Zanskar river, part of the Indus watershed, has been used by the people of Zanskar, Tibetans who settled in the Zanskar valley over 1000 years ago, to go back and forth to the outside world when the passes are locked into frozen winter silence, for centuries now.
Originally they carried/trading butter, one of many commodities these villagers traded with the outside world. It had to be traded in winter, as it was the only time it could travel from the cool summer cellars of their houses to Leh without spoiling. Today, they go back and forth still trading, but also taking children to school, or making visits to the sacred sites around Leh.
This is not just a full scale winter expedition, but a trek into the past, where we, in our high technology gear, will trek side by side with locals wearing woolen Gonchas and sounding the ice with their stout poplar staffs to drive away the demons that lurk there.
The route
Along the frozen and semi frozen river surface, this changes from hour to hour. It climbs high at times above broken ice, and at times you have no choice, you have to get wet feet. At times it seems impossible and you will not believe what the human body can do, or how thin a ledge of ice will support you. You will watch the porters do the impossible. And then we follow them.
Gear and the cold
It does get very cold on the Chadar, but does not seem to be. Why? Because it is hard work, with very few moments to relax; you really do have to keep moving. Also, the complete absence of any wind to chill you, and the excellent gear you are wearing keeps you well insulated. Day temperatures average minus 13ºC and at night it drops to minus 30ºC. The only time you really feel it is packing up in the morning.
The Trek & Team
Our team was like UN team, Me from India, Jerry from US, Piotr from Poland, Hauke from Germany, Joel from US, Alison from UK and our Great Guide Lobsang from Tibet, Ex Indian Army guy.
Arrived in Delhi at mid night and work up at 4:00 am to catch flight for Leh, flight got canceled very bad weather at Leh and a Time pass day at Delhi, I took proper sleep as I did not sleep last night.
Next morning again ready at 4:00 am to catch a flight to Leh, snow GODs were nice to us and after delay for few hours we were in Leh from +20c to -7c temperature.
Morning to Leh was very very chilling, after hot cup of Tea and coffee we were out for stroll in Leh, the land of past; Tashi Namgyal’s 15th century capital. Apart from cold altitude will catch you easily, Leh is at altitude of 3550 meters. Stroll was taking us around Leh a little piece of central Asian history and its place dominating the old bazaar and a backdrop of snowy peaks.
We had one more day to explore this historical place, Leh is also known as a land of monasteries there are many colorful gompas to explore. We explored Stakna gompa, Shy Palace and few more places.
On the Ice
Mornings in Leh in any season are special, with the harsh high Himalayan light softened by the dust in the air. In winter, the call to prayer from the mosque wakes you gently. Breakfast in the Shynam hotel was a last touch of civilization. By 8:00 we were on the move, driving through the suburbs of Leh, then along the Indus valley. The road climbs slowly past Spitok Monastery, and bus loads of Ladakhi kids heading for where the Indus has been diverted into shallow pools for skating. We reach about 3700m where we stopped to stretch our legs and take in the view behind. Leh nestles at the foot of the Ladakh range, its location dictated by the high route to China behind. From here you can really see how geography dictates history.
On, descending to the Indus again to its confluence with the Zanskar. A dirt road from here took us to Chilling, as far as the jeep can go. Thanks to BRO (Border Road Organization) there is a road which is stretched from Chilling to 3-4 Km more inside, which saved our 4 hours of walk, YES then it is on the ice. It takes an hour or so to get into a comfortable rhythm, and we have found that using crampons tends to be more of a hindrance, as they are not suitable for all ice conditions (I used TNF Chilkat), good trekking poles were essential. where you ascend a frozen stream. The camp was on a sandy plateau to one side of the Zanskar, where on this first day our tents were erected for us. A rest day and 6:00 am dinner.
Morning 7:00 AM temperature was -9c and was really chilling and it was really difficult to pack all stuff, specially sleeping bag ..
Again Waking, a shock? hope not too much! The morning cold is eased by the heater firing up in our communal tent, and soon hot washing water. Breakfast call was at 7.30 - breakfast is as much hot coffee or tea as you can drink, eggs to order (fresh while they last, then powdered) Lobsang's fresh baked bread, jam and honey. Departure time was around nine (same schedule for all days during trek), and the days soon assume a familiar pattern. Lobsang was ahead with the trekkers team, followed by our porter team. It is essential always to stay with our guides. This is the only trek in the world where the trail, literally, vanishes beneath your feet.
Entire trek is combination of Walk on water (ICE), Rock climbing sometime and to be wet feet in ICE water.
Trek Day Schedule
Good Morning: 7:00 am with bed tea/coffee
Hot water: 7:30 am
Breakfast: 8:00 am
Start time: 9:00 am
Lunch on the way: 1:00 pm
Camp site: 3:00 pm to 5:00 pm depends on trekking type.
Evening Tea or Coffee
Dinner: 6:30 pm
Good Night: 8:30 pm