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If what you seek is the unusual in history and a little adventure – a window to the past – rife with unspoiled natural beauty, you will find it all on the road from Gangtok to Nathu-la, a journey that is truly synonymous with oriental exoticism.
Being here feels as though I am a part of the journey made upon the fabled Old Silk Route that was for centuries used by traders, both Indian and Chinese, to barter an array of commodities. Though a very well maintained bitumen road serviced by the Border Road Organization has long replaced the old Pony Trail, one can even now feel as though they have embarked on that ancient journey that was once a cultural highway and major trade link.
 Leaving the cramped lanes of Gangtok behind I realize that somewhere in the distance, between the many snow peaked mountains of Tibet begins the long journey of the Yarlung Zangbo river, known in India as the Bhramaputra. The road ahead winds its way over many hills to Lhasa where the Qinghai-Tibet railway is making its way through the highest pass in the world - the Tanggula Mountain, at a height of more than 16,000 feet.
The journey from Gangtok to Nathu La which used to take 20-25 days; I had planned to cover in less than three hours.
 The air is crisp and cold as we leave the sub tropical vegetation to make way for the alpine meadows, which we see slowly turning red, hinting at approaching winters. The ascent is quite steep as we arrive at Karponang, 15 km from Gangtok at an altitude of 10,000 feet. We have now climbed 5000 feet and one can feel the air thinning. The road hugs the curves of the desolate, barren mountains whilst the hills on the other side are dotted with snow freckles. There could not have been a better contrast. The entire drive offers a rugged frontier flavour that never seems to end.
 Later I travel through the Kyongnosla Sanctuary, home to Blood Pheasant and the Red Panda. Though disappointed that we have not spotted any of these extraordinary creatures, the semi wild yaks and mules do keep us company for a while. It is in no way a gentle terrain and life is hard, particularly during the winters when the temperatures drop below zero and cause many more a hardships.
We are now getting close to the Tsongmo Lake, (i.e., the source of water in Bhutanese). At 12,000 feet one now must climb over the crest of the precipitous ascent, stumbling into a wide-open space and then witness as the picturesque lake, nestled between snow clad mountains greets you warmly. The commercialised road called Khasa Strip on the left is mercifully silent. I sit quietly at a distance to drink in the splendour; the waters are placid and soon will be totally frozen .
I have been warned that the weather gets inclement without warning and seeing the spools of itinerant clouds gathering over the mountain peaks, I knew I had to move on. A family looks up and waves us by. The shacks are left behind and already the drizzle paints prisms on the glass windows.
Though before
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