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Unlike everywhere else, we were hounded by agents the moment we alighted from the bus. One of them suggested a travel office. That fellow not just got us a Tata Sumo, but also booked a hotel in Gangtok. What seemed like an ill-thought plan turned out just all right. The Sumo reached Gangtok, again around 100 km away, in four hours. The hotel was on the main road and it was fine for Rs. 600.
Sikkim
Gangtok
The only thing that greets you in Gangtok is heaps and piles of hotels. They are all over the place. There must be more hotels than homes in Gangtok. I counted 17 in a 50 metre stretch. Kasturi Residency, the hotel we were staying in, had a funny looking manager, Sen-da. He walked gingerly and never missed an opportunity for a smoke outside the premises. We booked a trip to Yumthang for the next day. It is the hotspot in Sikkim with every tour operator worth his salt working a package. It would cost us Rs.1200 per head including the stay and food. Even though it seemed a touch on the higher side, there was very little we could do given the crowd of organized tourism.
To kill time on the first day, we went to the Enchey Monastery, stationed high on a mountain, next to a TV tower. It was quite a climb, through narrow pathways, in front of houses and crossing proper roads. There is a direct road to the monastery, but it is a roundabout route for walkers. The monastery was closed and outside it a few youngsters were attempting a game of cricket with a stone and a thin stick. The ball won mostly.
However, it isn’t cricket which is the primary sport. Baichung Bhutia, local boy, has made sure football has at least one bastion in the north-east. There is an outstandingly beautiful stadium in the city and everywhere kids can be seen playing the sport.
We then went to the MG Road. In the evening, vehicles are banned on the road and it is a terrific place to walk on. There are plenty of restaurants catering to varied tastes.
Rumtek Monastery and Tashi Viewpoint
In the morning, we went to the Rumtek Monastery, some 24 km from Gangtok. This has a tremendous amount of army presence, because of the fact that when the young Karmapa fled from the Chinese, he took refuge here. There were a few young monks attending their daily schooling and an old monk was feeding pigeons. The monastery itself was opened for a few moments for some Bhutanese. We were lucky to sneak in when they were in. The gates were closed after that. The Ani Gonpa was not accessible to us but we did see the Tara Devi temple inside the monastery.
When we returned, we got ready for Yumthang. But so were hundreds of other people and there was a serious paucity if Sumos. We, bored by waiting, opted out for that day and postponed it for the next morning. Sen-da, who had been pilloried by disgruntled passengers, was delighted that we had done so.
To kill time, we walked to Tashi Viewpoint, a place 8 km from the hotel. It was a disappointing view that day given the clouds around. It had also begun drizzling. But the walk was worth the effort. On a narrow road, through small towns and army bases, it was an enjoyable experience.
Going back to the hotel, we saw a movie, Bhagam Bhag, at the Vajra movie hall. We came out after 45 minutes.
Lachung, Yumthang and Zero-point
The Yumthang package, it has to be said, is a collective
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