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It is perhaps the subconscious fear, fascination and a streak of innate voyeurism that draws almost all tourists to the cremation ghats in Varanasi.
 The elaborate formalities according to the Hindu custom right from the funeral procession arriving at the ghats to the rituals prior to lighting the pyre makes for quite a riveting and disturbing drama. And the sight of several funeral pyres burning brightly in the fast spreading twilight put me in a philosophical reverie, which was broken by my boatman. He made a statement in a very matter of fact way, which I found extremely intriguing, "Death is business, it is a continuous process here in Varanasi. The fire that burns the dead never ceases." And how right he is.
It is not only the dream of every Hindu to make a pilgrimage to Varanasi at least once in their lifetime but it is also a common belief among them that anyone who ends their earthly cycle here is transported straight to heaven.
Pinnacle Of My Trip
 The allure of Varanasi, the city with myriad names - Kashi as it was first known but Benaras in popular parlance - is in its ghats. Over 100 ghats with numerous steep steps leading to the river dot the riverfront of the city.
While Harishchandra and the Manikarnika are the two most popular burning ghats, the main bathing ghats are Assi, Dasaswamedh, Barnasangam, Panchaganga. These are crowded throughout the day with devotees taking a dip in the holy river to cleanse all their sins.
 Viewing the ghats at dawn is the most rewarding experience; all your senses are treated to an empyreal experience on the ghats at dawn. For me it was the pinnacle of my trip to the city, which has been the religious metropolis of India for over 2,000 years because it is said to integrate the virtues of all other places of pilgrimage in India. The sun's first rays penetrating through the envelope of mist creating golden ripples on the water has a mesmerising effect while the ghats reverberate with the chants of mantras, the clangs of temple bells and the ‘riyaz' of aspiring musicians. The aroma of incense, oil lamps, flowers and scents permeates through the air.
 Boats line the ghats and one can rent them to take a cruise on the river to see the different ghats. During peak season, which is from September to end November because of perfect weather and the festive season, a boat ride can touch an astronomical Rs 2,000 but during other times the rates can be a meager Rs 300. I was lucky to meet a friendly boatman who offered an extended guided trip on the river for Rs 500 and not only took me around to view all the ghats but also waited patiently for me to finish my rather prolonged dip in the Ganga. I am certain that the man must have had empathetic thoughts like "poor soul, she must have a lot of sins to cleanse", as I wallowed in water enjoying the morning sunshine under a clear blue sky and the tingling sensation brought on by the slightly chilly water.
An Explosion Of Colours
 The view of the city from the river is interesting but my first impression of it was a feeling that is truly inexplicable. It was a barrage of lively and colourful images and I was introduced to the various facets of the city all at once - priests with shaved heads offering their service in temples, Muslims clad in long black kurtas walking alongside in conversation with each other, families looking around for familiar faces, beggars testing the generosity of visitors. And the astounding ghats!
The city is a centre for the religiously inclined and those who are not - it not only houses more than 1,500 temples and mosques but is also a seat for music, art and culture enthusiasts. Among the religious attractions, the Alamgir Mosque built over Panchganga Ghat and the Gyanvapi Mosque, a magnificent structure with tall minarets, both built by Emperor Aurangzeb are popular attractions. While the Arabic Centre of Islamic Studies is a reminder of the fact that more than 25 per cent of the city's population is Muslim, the exquisite examples of ancient
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