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Far & away
You can wander up lush green mountain trails, in the very footsteps of those early travellers. Marvel at the stupas, monasteries and temples. Acquaint yourself with a culture that is at once bizarre and fascinating. Sikkim offers you a holiday that is more than a dream - a voyage of adventure and discovery. This description was enough to entice us to make a trip to this distant valley. We were ready to take off.
Day 1: Cosmopolitan Gangtok
Touts descend upon us like whorls of blue mist that advance suddenly from the mountains to blanket the verdant valley in a watery haze, the moment we step out of the New Jalpaiguri Railway Station. Each one quotes a separate price especially meant for us and offers special discounts. Glad to know that we are so special to so many people, but it is a tough choice. We politely decline and proceed to the Sikkim Bus Terminus, the most sensible option for those headed to Sikkim. Not only do you get a wider choice of transport options, but also cheaper rates. We hire a Maruti to drop us to Gangtok and set sail in the pleasant March morning. The journey is a revelation and for the next four hours we religiously adhere to the window screens, not wanting to miss any of the splendid visuals that unfold gradually before our bemused eyes. Straight away, we realise that the trip is going to be a blast. The serpentine road winds its way through genteel riversides, dangerous mountain bends, dense forests and manicured paddy fields. We glide along, at times reaching down to caress the flowing waters of Teesta and the next instant chasing the fleeting clouds. In between, we take refreshing breaks in the cozy nooks to sample pure Darjeeling tea and tasty momos.
From Singtam begins the long, tedious journey from a mere 488-metres to a formidable 1,677 metres. The lime-green valley retreats behind the rugged mountains that look ominously from all sides for daring to venture onto them. The razor-edged Singalila on the western side forms boundaries with Nepal and the undulating Chola on the east shares frontiers with Tibet. The region owes its name to the tribal Limbu princess who lovingly called it her Sukh Him or ‘Happy Home In The Snow’, after her marriage to one of the kings. Sikkim is an obvious abbreviation of Sukh Him. Gangtok appears cool with its cosmopolitan gloss, but to our disappointment, is is slightly crowded. The city welcomes us with a huge hoarding of Tashi Delek (Welcome in Sikkimese). On entering, the first thing we notice is the snow-capped Khangchendzonga (Kanchenjunga) smiling benevolently in the background. In Gangtok on clear days, you never miss the sight of the third highest peak in the world and that, undoubtedly, enhances its attraction. The Mahatma Gandhi Marg (M G Marg) is the city’s lifeline dotted with numerous hotels, restaurants, curio shops and cyber cafes. But we opt for the Siniolchu lodge, a government-run hotel situated at a distance far from the maddening crowds.
Post-lunch, we visit Do Drul Chorten. Around this towering white edifice are 108 prayer wheels with the mystic Tibetan mantra Om Mani Padme Hun (Hail to the jewel in lotus). The Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology fascinates me with its rare and beautiful collection of Thangkas. The Enchey Monastery features next on the agenda. This 200-year-old monastery was built by a Tantric Master and the setting is sure to evoke some eerie feelings. Exhausted from a hectic day, we book a car to visit Tsomgo Lake the following day and retire to an early night.
Day 2: Scintillating Vistas At Tsomgo Lake
Dawn breaks early next morning with golden hues dancing on the white snow peaks against a spotless blue canopy. We took a quick tour six kms away to the Tashi viewpoint, to satisfyourselves with a panoramic view of the entire Himalayan range. Back down, I quickly finish breakfast and proceed towards Tsomgo Lake, an aqua marine wonder stretching over one km at 12,310 feet! The nerve-chilling, stomach-churning journey is well compensated by scintillating vistas. Rhododendrons and primroses appear regularly to add a softer touch to the jagged landscape till the doorsteps of Tsomgo. The placid lake mirrors the snowlit summits of the surrounding peaks and the sight is truly amazing. Huge chunks of snow are seen floating. In the winter, the entire area gets frozen and, if you dare to bear the chilling temperature, Tsomgo would gift you the most expensive landscape painting. A 15-minute walk along the lake takes one to
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