India In 17 Days

12. Cherrapunjee:

“Megha-alaya. A place so wonderful that even the moving homeless clouds found a home!”......... (Kavithai Mannan) Poet from Bangalore

“Wow”......... Consultant from Bangalore

“Too much”... Oneiro on Cherrapunjee

Morning woke me up to a dream that I was sleeping in a dungeon. Things tumbled back in my mind the moment I saw the water jug that was kept on the dust covered table. I had slept in a dungeon. We rushed to the tourist bus that was to leave to Cherrapunjee. We weren’t exactly overjoyed with the idea of traveling in a tourist bus, like tourists. I mean, we weren’t tourists! We were the people who traveled far and wide out on an adventure trip and didn’t want a guided tour, the locations and starting & ending times decided by the driver of the bus! But then, rarely, my dear friend! Rarely does the thing we want to happen, happens. So, we went. We had the pleasure of the cabin to us. Breath taking view added to the awesome-ness. (In case you’re asking if I thought about her, then, you won’t get an answer here. This is day 15. You ought to have known by now when I think about her and when I won’t. What?) Of the whole lot of places we visited, just like the tourists, we liked mawsynram caves the most. If you happen to visit Cherrapunjee, I urge you to visit one of the most beautiful natural rock formations that one can find in Cherrapunjee. It’s the best.

Lunch was maggi and more chocolate. It was here Sleepyface was faced with the profound question if chocolate and places like Koteshwar, Leh or Cherrapunjee made up the heaven that is promised religiously by all these religions of the world. If this ain’t heaven, then what is? (If you know, let me know in the comments)

Cherrapunjee lived up to its expectations Oneiro and Vishnu carried in the minds – the wettest place on earth. There was a constant drizzle. The fog and the clouds occupy spaces meant for clear air and make visibility less than 2 meters. It is with immense emotion that Sleepyface urges you, if at all he does, to visit Cherrapunjee at the earliest. It’s important that you understand the emotion and not just treat it as a bunch of English alphabets tied together to form words.

Dear reader, I urge you to visit Cherrapunjee at the earliest. (And, if I’m not asking too much, if you could, you know, putting it squarely, let me know the answer to the profound question of which heaven is and which is not)

10. Guwahati:

“What if there’s a bomb right here, next to us?”…. SF to himself on Guwahati

“Filthy...” O on Guwahati

Guwahati! The city, slow but organized. People, nice. Weather, pleasant…SF on Guwahati

It had just stopped drizzling. The whole place was wet and the weather extremely pleasant. It is one of those rare cities where the bus stand is right next to the railway station. We didn’t want to waste any time and we rushed to the bus stand to catch the next available bus to Shillong.

It was here that mayhem of a different kind took place. The scheduled 3 hour journey took 7 hours, with 2 break downs, a puncture, fire in the bus and traffic jam.

As we entered Meghalaya, the view outside was like a dream. The greens, the constant drizzle, the clouds, it was in this setting that life found meaning. I had dairy milk chocolate in one of the most pleasant places on earth – Meghalaya. I probably couldn’t have asked for more.

11. Shillong:

“Hey, look at him spit!” SF to Oneiro

“Er…having an umbrella qualifies a citizenship in Shillong?” O on Shillong

It was sixish when we reached Shillong. We thought, like every other place that we’ve visited, it would be easy to get accommodation. We only thought so. The first place we enquired, we thought we selected a wrong place. Then the second, the third, seventh! All hotels were full and no rooms and were priced exorbitant amounts. It made no sense. It was more expensive than Bangalore. We settled on a place which looked worse than the one in Pahargunj. It was straight out from the ones shown in the bollywood movies showcasing underworld brutalities.

On completing the eventful journey, which will remain in the memory for a long time, we saw ourselves at the outskirts of Delhi. Mobbed by auto drivers and driven by indecision, we checked in at the worst hotel I’ve ever stayed in, in Pahargunj. It was a place that could’ve attracted a raid by the police any hour, for all the wrong reasons that you can think of. Yes, all the reasons you can think of. (what?) The corridors were stinking. The room was stinking. Ugh… I not just refuse to but I can’t describe more about it.

We got out of the place as early as possible. Enquiring around we learnt CP was close by. Walked until CP, brunch at Saravana Bhavan again, Shuttled between PVR Rivoli and the PVR Plaza @ CP to find out if we could squeeze in 3 shows that day. Sadly, we managed only two (Partner & Mithya) but hey, we also managed to buy used books and meet the cast of Mithya, gobbled up a snack at the Mc Donald’s, before which, we sat at the CP park and read a bit of the used book that we bought.

We booked tickets for the bus leaving Manali at 3pm and reaching New Delhi at 7 am the next day. There is no choice. You have to leave Manali by 3 if you wish to see New Delhi the next morning.

The train to Guwahati was at 2359 hrs from New Delhi. So we had some time which we didn’t want to while away in New Delhi. After intense discussion, some shopping, a visit to a Gompa in Manali, lunch at madras café, we decided to while away our time in New Delhi. But we decided to do a movie marathon. Morning to night, we wanted to watch movies. We wanted all hell to break loose. But rarely, dear reader, rarely things turned the way we wanted it to turn. I’m sorry to disappoint you, hell did not break loose.

The bus to Delhi left precisely an hour late, but not before the usual drama of leaving the passengers clueless on the time of actual departure.

The bus is something to speak about. It has a sleeper coach above the seats, where in two people can sleep. Designed for the honeymooners, in all possibility. And so, this Indian lady “upgraded” her seat to a sleeper and later found that she had to share the travel with a firang-guy. It was here, that our dream of hell breaking loose took place. All hell broke loose. Drama unfolded like we’ve never before watched. Oneiro and I were enjoying every minute. Abuses flew, Bus Conductor came running, the other firangs confused, while some holy gentlemen decided to smoke. And, all the drama that was quoted, took place before the bus left.

What could’ve been sorted by a simple request was blown out of proportion and we witnessed the demonstration of mayhem, end to end.

9. Manali

“Look at the commercialization maan!” – SF on Manali, upon arrival

“You know what Vishnu, I think Manali is the closest to the Himalayas, the “not so fit” people can reach” – O on Manali

It must be close to 7 when we reached Manali. The place, I tell you, is totally in contrast with Leh. Commercialization has spoilt the beauty of Manali. It’s a honeymooners’ paradise. We did see quite a lot of couples cuddling and walking with hands around the other’s waist and stuff like that.

We had a train to catch from Delhi the next day.

Having “done” Lamayuru, we decide to go to Khardung La, which is the highest motorable road in the world. We hired the bike for an extra day, get the required in-line permits (yes, tourists need permits here and the hotel or the guest house you stay in will arrange for this quite easily. When you’re visiting Leh, please do carry an identity proof – passport (or at the least a driver’s license). The distance from Leh to Khardung La is 45 km. For at least 40 kms, the road is just fine. Beyond this, the landslides and water from glaciers have spoilt the road. Below is a video that was shot as we rode from Leh to Khardung La

Khardung La is at 18,000 odd feet above sea level and a little more than 6,000 feet above Leh. Acclimatization is very important. Visiting Khardung La on the second day of your stay at Leh is risky. Fourth day would be more like it.

We had started by 7 AM on the July morning and it was freezing cold. The rider had to use a glove to keep fingers from going numb. By the time we reached South Pullu (which is at an altitude of 15,000 odd ft) the whole body and the blood was demanding something hot inside. I have a strong feeling that the body parts (you know, heart, veins, this, that and something else) started becoming hard and the blood solidifying. I didn’t dare share this with Oneiro. He would’ve probably pushed me from one of the many opportunities that abound for such an act of great valor. And yes, there’s tea available in South Pullu and its good. We got tea mixed with our blood and things began to improve. Improve inside the body I mean, because, outside, the road began to get worse, and, heart just came to mouth! Simply. And things got better and I live to tell the tale, as always, so that’s a different thing altogether.

There’s a small canteen at Khardung La where you get maggi (instant noodles), coffee, tea and soft drinks. Now, if one has not given enough time for acclimatization at Leh, its an open invitation for mountain sickness. It just comes and never goes until you descend to a lower altitude.

It was here that the Vishnu duo first separated. Yes. He went ahead and I stayed back. I couldn’t put myself together to go further and I decided to spend my time at Khardung La. After watching the army men, the European tourists, the enthusiastic bikers and 90 minutes, the other Vishnu returned to find me in a bad shape. The anti-“throw-up” tablet did exactly the opposite. And it was here onwards that the other Vishnu rode the bike like a man possessed. Once we hit the tar road after the gravel, the 180 Pulsar never saw a speed below 60kmph. In those ghat-sections, this is a risk. A Border Roads Organization road sign read “Don’t Gossip, Let him drive” and I just shut my mouth until we reached the hotel room.

Shanti Stupa happened. We hadn’t seen the places Leh had to offer us. So, with the available time, we went to Shanti Stupa and it is nicely mounted on a hillock. The huge number of stairs leading to the Stupa got us think twice about climbing it. But, we needed exercise too, so, we did climb and the view from atop was indeed impressive. The huge open space was a revelation. It was getting dark and we started to descend. If you’re in Leh, do go to this place not after shopping, but before and carry zero or minimum stuff with you. There is a small restaurant up there which caters to your needs of tea and snacks. Give yourself at least three hours for this place.

We start quite early. Fill petrol. The journey to Lamayuru, one of the oldest monasteries was filled with beauty. The great Zanskar and Himalayan ranges, Indus & Zanskar Rivers, smaller towns – Nimmu and the like, breakfast, breaks which were taken to admire the view, a sigh here and an exclamation there, the army convoys, boy! It sure was a miracle in motion.

As ‘they’ say, the journey became more important and enjoyable than the destination, when the doors to the temple were shut by the time we reached Lamayuru.

It was during this point that I decided to visit Leh more often in the future. The bike rides along these places are the best. You find road sometimes. Sometimes there’s no road, but just gravel and to ride your bike in these roads, well, it is something else. And the rain! It hits you like needles. It was one heck of an experience riding in the rain.

It is here that I would like the pictures to speak more than me. Words are not enough and wouldn’t justify the beauty of the place. Believe me.

8. Leh

“Heh, Bangalore is colder than Leh!” – O and SF on Leh, upon arrival

“Me in Leh, beautiful view” – Murderer

Leh. It’s something else. Words fail. But there’ll be an attempt.

As I think more about Leh, it ceases to be a geographical location in my mind. It has become more of a feeling or a state of mind (Stop grinning!). There’s a connection with this place that gets bonded the minute you arrive. The people of Ladakh are so friendly and trustworthy that, you know, 26 years and all that, nope, not in a single place of India have I seen nicer people. When you check out of the hotel that you stay, the hotel staff feels bad as if their family member is going away. Touching, moving and all “those” emotions come flowing.

For getting acclimatized to the height, we were given to understand, one were to sleep. Not for one hour or two, but at least 3 to 4. We being we slept not for 3 or 4, but about 10, with a lunch break in between. The weariness accumulated on all these days started showing up. We slept the whole day and went out only for dinner.

After visiting a monastery (Gompa) in Fort road, we headed to the terrace restaurant. A new form of energy kicked in and just like that, we hired a pulsar 180 and decided to go to Lamayuru the next day. Nazir helped us set everything up.

Nazir. We met him as soon as we landed in Leh and he made our lives so easy that we depended on him for everything. The next time you’re going to Leh, and if you would like to arrange stuff there before you go, just contact Nazir. He’ll take care of the arrangement part.

7. New Delhi

“Delhi Sucks man!” O on New Delhi

“Whatay city, Whatay city, Life after ten, is a pity” Consultant from Bangalore on New Delhi

“I would kill you. Delhi is a nice place!” Mathemagician from New Delhi, on the above quote

0400hrs in the morning, we left Yatri Nivas with a heavy heart. The bus left almost immediately and the four and half hour journey which demanded us to sit in only one position had us quite irked.

The familiar Bhuj bus stand had nothing to welcome us, the horrifying stares continued. We ignored such acts of the devil and moved to the same place where we had the tasty pooris. Intake of oil is so essential while on trips like these, especially far and wide, you see. And we decide to get fit by walking with our back packs from the bus stand to the railway station, in the hot and tearing sun. Tearing not just the clouds, but we felt like tearing our clothes too, it was that hot. We sit by a mechanic shop hoping a miracle, but, where does miracle happen nowadays?, nothing happened. So we started to walk again. And, Bhuj seems to be recovering from the quake in 2001. The buildings look new and the cracks are fewer, if not non-existent. The city buildings seemed to mock at us. Us – weary, sweaty travelers, about to complete the far part of the travel and take the wide part. The sun mocked at us. And finally, the only whole and soul, our skin mocked at us, making us sweaty like never before.

The long and a little frustrating walk comes to an end with the IAF jets flying at the railway station. No, separate it out. Jets’ flying above was the event. Railway station was the location. Our tickets said S3. I see S1, S2 and after which is S4! There’s no S3. The ticket checker is quite casual about it and I thought he was going to say “yahin thoda bahar gaya hua hogaa”. Believe me, in Bhuj, at the circumstances we were in, this was a possibility.

With things settled, a big fat Gujarati family move into our compartment. 12 seconds upon their arrival, the whole place resembles a food plate. They start munching every damn thing; the Behn-ji tho, had brought the whole kitchen. We had little option but to shake our heads.

Flies. I was controlling myself from talking about this. Bhuj is the “fly” capital of India. Especially the Bhuj – New Delhi train. In my 26 years of upbringing in a clean environment, I haven’t seen such a magnanimous number of flies per square meter. We sprayed Set Wet Zatak’s deodorant hoping that would make them go away, but the relief was only temporary. All we did was to turn away, feeling more irritated.

6. Bhuj

The image I saw in the morning of Day 4 was quite disturbing. Filth greeted the early morning eye, right at the entrance of the door in the train. The autowallahs mobbed us, as if we were film stars. After assuring that we only looked like them, they treated us as customers.

The bus stand at Bhuj is a paradox, besides being unclean. It should’ve been called “people stand”. At least 40% of the population of Bhuj just stand there. That’s the whole point, they just stand! How many ever buses come and go, they don’t board the bus. And the buses! They’re parked as if they’re in kindergarten. Here, there and everywhere. This way, that way and which way not. The horrifying stares we got while we were standing there suggested they were planning to con us. If ever in your life time you happen to visit Bhuj, keep this in mind. There wouldn’t be any English news paper available. (But we weren’t there to read newspapers okay)

We wandered around for breakfast and had oil dripping, but very tasty, pooris along with a super milky tea.

5 minutes into the bus journey to Koteshwar, Oneiro and I felt as if we were in a bus in Pakistan. Whatay people. Whatay journey. Un-ignorable stench. To add to that, rain. Boy. Four hours and thirty minutes spent in sitting in the same position, in such a pleasing ambience and sweet sweat.

We reach Narayan Sarovar. And just like that, we reach Koteshwar which is 2km away. It was love at first sight. No, not the women, silly, I’m talking about the beauty of rann (seabed / desert), the beauty of water, the beauty of the rann bisected by the tar road, the beauty of flamingos, the beauty of the view and so on (and so forth)

But wait! There’s no food available in Koteshwar. So we rush back to Narayan Sarovar hoping “some” food will be available. But no! What did we know! In Narayan Sarovar, there’s this Ashram, which serves food for free! Boy O Boy! We were moved by the generosity. It is at this point things began to get pleasant. The cleanliness which went away in the morning started to come back, at least in our minds.

We found a nice looking building and later discovered that it’s a Gujarat Tourism Yatri Nivas, for weary travelers like us. In my 26 years of “yatri nivas” visiting experience, I’ve never had the whole “yatri nivas” for just the team I’m traveling with! Clean, pleasant, and with Koteshwar so near! We thought we were dreaming.

We were woken up by the Indian Army officials who questioned our presence there, not just our presence especially with the cameras. As things always turned in, we got “friends” with them.

We decided to stay at the resort only after we learnt that there’s an early morning 4 am bus to Bhuj, which, if we had missed, would’ve upset the whole travel plan.

The evening was the most relaxing evenings we ever had in the whole trip. This comes in as the “unforgettable” moment. Especially the walk on the road connecting yatri nivas and Koteshwar has been etched into the mind. The walk witnessed Sleepyface singing all romantic kishore kumar numbers to himself, apparently thinking of her. Such becomes a travel, so far and so wide, that it leaves images………… so strong that………. Er……. Well…………, I have no words….

4. Ahmedabad

“Ahmedabad! What can I say…. It’s something else…” – An Architect from Ahmedabad, on Ahmedabad

“Let’s hope the city finds me again” – SF, on the above quote

“Ugh…” – Oneiro, on Ahmedabad

39 hours in Sleeper Class can make one dirty. Sulabh Shauchalaya called us. My first ever visit to one of the greatest humanitarian contributions to the Indian public. After the ritual, as I think back, it would be my last visit, you know, in my 26 years of bathroom visiting experience; I haven’t seen a worse place of bath.

The task was simple. Put the backpacks in the cloakroom. It should take less than 5 minutes. But no! Obstacle should show up. It takes almost an hour. The young and energetic, person behind the counter points out that we haven’t locked our backpacks. “Is mein taala nahin hai!”. 25 minutes later after locking it up, he says, “bees minat lagenge” for no reason at all!.

We decide to visit Gandhi Ashram. A huge procession of men displaying their six packs is going on, on the streets of Ahmedabad witnessing which is the whole of Ahmedabad. Or so we thought. We don’t know what is happening and apprehensive to ask someone. There’s Rapid Action Force and Police all over. Communal disharmony is the first thing that comes to our mind. (It was Lord Krishna’s Rath Yatra, as we later found out. It created so much filth and no autos), leaving us with no option but to walk. We lost another hour here, thanks to the obstacle. We walk for 2-3 kms and find a vacant auto, who agreed to take us there. We get in along with a policeman and two more friends of the auto driver.

Sabarmati Ashram, I think, is not known to too many people in Gujarat. The auto fellow took us to a hotel called Gandhi Ashram. (What hath this country gone to? Oh God! Forgive them, its not their mistake! They just don’t know). We tell him Gandhi Ashram is on the opposite side, a little further.

Gandhi Ashram is a cool and serene place. Memorabilia of Mahatma Gandhi, his letters in his own handwriting, photos, the house he lived, and things like that. We sat by Sabarmati and felt like spending the whole day there. But Akshardham called us.

After having a good gujju thali at a restaurant run by Gujarat Tourism (opposite to Gandhi Ashram), we waited for mode of transport to Akshardham. There are lots of jeeps available. You just have to wait and stop them. Stopping the jeeps is a trick which only people of Ahmedabad can do. Rocket Science.

5. Gandhinagar

“Who is this generosity for?” O on Gandhinagar

“Ok, we have wide roads, good weather, nice buildings, greenery around, our task is to get people here” – O & SF on what could be a possible direction of talk by the designer of the city - Gandhinagar

“Lets build Akshardham here!” – O & SF on what could be a possible suggestion by the designer’s deputy

And so went we, to Akshardham. Nothing in the jeep ride was ground breaking, the only heart shattering moment arrived at the end of our journey, at Gandhinagar, the capital of Gujarat, right in front of Akshardham temple and my face, full of joy, when the driver turned at us and said “Aaj tho Akshardham bandh hai!”!!

Dear reader, please make a note of this. This is extremely important in your visit to Ahmedabad at any point in your life. AKSHARDHAM TEMPLE IS CLOSED ON MONDAYS. We went away, appreciating the wide roads of Gandhinagar, which were constructed for nobody to travel. The whole of Gandhinagar looked to be designed on a ‘whim’. No traffic, no people, no nothing, but generously designed wide roads, green lawns, clean pavements and blah.

Over dinner, we transferred all the pics to the thumb drive, from the cameras and talked about this and that with the architect from Ahmedabad. As if the obstacles during the day weren’t enough, the train which we were supposed to take, to reach Bhuj, was delayed by an hour! Obstacles, Obstacles, Obstacles!

Only the eyes moved (with an occasional adjustment of the body) between the Western Ghats and Salman Rushdie’s, Moor’s Last Sigh. That pretty much sums up Day 2. The highlight of the day was the Sadhu in Madgaon, a guy selling fenny in the train.

The sun had to rise, regardless of SF and Oneiro rising earlier or later. But, we being we, rose earlier, got the cameras ready, rushed to the terrace to welcome the sun. There has to be something going wrong when everything else is right. No, the sun rose, but behind the clouds. The sunlight penetrated, making Kanniyakumari brighter and brighter by the minute, but no sign of the sun! Hide and Seek!

A nuisance called Sekar [name not changed], who happened to be the attendant in the hotel that we stayed in, seized this opportunity and sang songs which we didn't want to listen to, spoke about stuff we were least interested in, but made us tea, which we were dying for. And then, just like that we got ready and headed to the beach.

We saw the beach from atop the view tower, from the land, standing on the rocks, sitting by the shore, and sitting at a hotel, which offered some lip smacking dosas. Oh, I didn't tell you, the view from atop the view tower made me hum a super hit kannada song, which roughly translates to expressing one's love as direct and as possible in the three golden words. Yeah, for me to sing such a song, imagine the view! Breath taking was the word. (Now I wonder, why I didn't sing "take my breath away". Hm…)

Now, I don't know if we chose the clean part of the beach or cleanliness just came, but it did happen. The water was clean – green near the shore, blue farther away. By the shore, we played with the sand, and exclaimed it was beautiful and all that, and by the time another song could escape from me, hunger set in. We had to catch the 1030 to Trivandrum. It was 0845. Finishing things in a hurry, we set off to the station.

The sight of the railway station caught us by surprise. It resembled a thirumana mandapam (maduve chatra, marriage hall if you like it). But the outer appearance was only a camouflage. In my 26 years of railway station visiting experience, this has been the very best railway station. No peddlers, no people, no dirt, no grime, no nothing. Cleanliness just came. It was an experience by itself. We had the whole super clean bogie to us.

Tired and sleep deprived, we slept in the train and woke up at Trivandrum, which welcomed us, with renewed vigor. We treated ourselves to a nice and elaborate lunch in a luxury hotel, which made us sleepy as well. The train we got into wasn't exactly comfortable, but we aren't here on a pleasure holiday, filled with luxury, you see, so we settled in. There began the 39 hour journey.

This day was filled with trade offs. First instances traced to the list of things that were to be taken and not to be taken, while packing. The rush to the airport in an auto caught me by surprise. The time for travel was the surprise, not the auto.

Oneiro was already at the airport. Air Deccan closes check-ins 45 minutes ahead of departure. When I entered the airport, the aircraft was to depart exactly 53 minutes later, if on time. After a few, "excuse me"s, "there is a queue!", "is it free seating?" the great security check, "thank you"s, we found ourselves in the bus carrying us to the aircraft.

1. Trivandrum:

Flight was normal, except for the occasional bursts of energy and talk that followed. We didn't yet know what was coming in the days ahead. Reached Trivandrum and as we "de-planed" (Oneiro says, this is a cool word) the cool dry breeze hit us.

Here we were, ready to travel India, far and wide, this well built citizen of Trivandrum offers to take us by the pre-paid taxi! As if we were on a pleasure holiday filled with luxury! Pah!

But no! we being we, traded with the bumpy auto ride and minutes later found ourselves seated inside the Toyota Qualis, hoping this would be the last "comfort" thing we're going to do. What did we know!

Upon reaching the bus stand, to catch a bus to Kanniyakumari, we were pleasantly surprised with a direct bus that was waiting for us to ferry us there. But hunger also called us okay. There we traded the only direct bus to Kanniyakumari, and headed to gorge on food.

Indian Coffee House, a unique structure was standing right there in front of us and in we went. (Btw, since this is an interesting structure, as you can see in the photo, with your own eyes, I strongly recommend you to visit this place the next time you're in Trivandrum. In my 26 years of restaurant visiting experience, I haven't come across such a design. Yeah, yeah, you can also have food there). We promised ourselves to eat quickly and leave so that we could still catch the bus, but, what did we know! The bus had left off!

The old man behind the SETC counter was more than glad to help us and suggested what we already knew – go to Nagercoil and then to Kanniyakumari. The only help he provided was to point at a bus that was right in front of us. People were not just sitting inside the bus, but also, standing, sleeping. Even outside the bus, the lungi-lifted-and-tied men, smoking beedis were standing and waiting for the driver and conductor. We with our backpacks didn't seem to "fit in" and traded this off with the next bus, which was probably coming an hour ago.

Things turned themselves in, another bus came and we settled, mingled with the lungi-lifted-and-tied men, some of them drunk (country liquor I presume). The third row from the last had us seated.

It was then that I came into contact with, what is generally called in one word for the act of moving from one place to another, usually in a public utility vehicle, sometimes run by the government, sometimes private, travel. Clothes becoming stickier, cold wind carrying country liquor smell, unshaven beards (white) pricking the shoulders when the co-passenger used my shoulder as a pillow, intermittent bursts of sleep, filled the time between Trivandrum and Nagercoil.

2. Nagercoil

Now, the bus stand at Nagercoil is something worth a mention. In my 26 years of bus stand visiting experience, this is the best bus stand I've ever visited. Clean and Organized. Spic and Span. This and that. Very nice. We walked around the place, enquired around the place and squatted around the place (yes, we had to move three times, twice because of bus, once the police)

We did talk about spending the night in the bus stand. We decided to decide about this at the time the bus to Kanniyakumari arrived. We really didn't want to go to the hotel and stay. As if we were on a pleasure holiday filled with luxury! Pah!

3. Kanniyakumari

Along came the bus, and just like that, without speaking a word, we sat and just like that Kanniyakumari arrived. As soon as I stepped down from the bus, I saw Oneiro mobbed by three people. Two of them went away as if nothing happened. One particular character went on saar, saar, and saar and upon listening to him for a full 96 seconds, we were given to understand that he was offering to take us to a hotel for stay that night. As if we were on a pleasure holiday filled with luxury! Pah!

But no! We being we traded a possible but a promisingly adventurous stay by the beach side to a cozy, super comfortable hotel rooms. We unpacked, pulled out this and that, spoke about him and her, while I devoured the apple I bought at Kanniyakumari bus stand, while Oneiro did something (secret).

Having done the above said,

Ritual warranted, we hit the bed

Experienced comfort like never before,

While the time showed zero-one-three-four!

We had to catch the sunrise the next morning, the sunrise that would set the tone for the trip. And just like that, sleep came and I think I dreamed of her. I'm pretty much sure I did