Destination Features

No matter how intense the temptation for street food in Amritsar is, it is the faith that scores over the fare - with due respect to Amritsari naans, kebabs and the famous Amritsari fish. For the religiously inclined good food is a bonus while the gourmand takes temple just an excuse to tickle his taste buds.

History
Like any other holy city in India, Amritsar has its share of history, pain and joy. The story of the city began some 505 years ago, when a man known for its nobleness and compassion landed here at an ancient tank. This man was none other than the first Sikh Guru – Nanak Dev. Later Amar Dass, the third Guru moved Sikh Headquarters from Goindwal and set base here. But it was Ram Dass, the fourth in line among the Sikh Gurus who was instrumental in giving shape to the city. However, Arjan Dev, the fifth guru conceived the temple in the middle of the tank on an artificial island. The foundation of the Harmandir Sahib was laid by one Pir Mian Mir of Lahore on the request of Arjan Dev. The holy book of the Sikh - Adi Granth Sahib – was first installed here on August 16, 1604.

The location of the tank was so that the travelers between Lahore and Delhi would pass through the shrine. Soon, the city grew in popularity and settlements came up around the holy place. But it was not until the early 19^th century that Amritsar got its due. In 1802 Maharaja Ranjit Singh took control of the town and marched towards the centre of the pool throwing gold coins at the crowd, he took a dip and made a promise that would give the temple another name - the Golden Temple. He ordered that the Harmandir Sahib be rebuilt in marble and covered with gold leaf.

The scars of tragic events
Amritsar had its share of anguish. Apart from the pain of partition, two major tragic incidents plagued its history. The first was in 1919, when on 13 April General Reginald Dyer - a British Officer – opened fire on an unarmed gathering in Jalianwala Bagh killing thousands of people. The 2^nd is more recent one, hardly 23 years ago, when during Operation Bluestar in 1984 the Army marched to the temple complex to flush out Bhindrawale, who led the movement of an independent of Sikh nation.

The peace and calm afterwards
After big blow to the faith inflicted by the Operation Bluestar and years of militancy, Amritsar today is a peaceful place to travel. A pilgrim’s refuge and a gourmand’s delight; the city of Golden Temple promises a tour for the soul and palate in the heart of Punjab.

Useful Info on Amritsar

How to reach Amritsar: It is 234 km from Chandigarh and 445 km from Delhi. The city is well connected by air, rail and road transport. Raja Sansi Airport is 11 km from the city centre. Amritsar Junction is well connected to major cities of the country. Amritsar Shatabbdi is one of the convenient trains that connect Delhi and Amritsar. Mumbai is connected by Golden Temple and Dadar-Amritsar Express trains; and Amritsar-Howrah connects Kolkata (Calcutta) and Amritsar.

When to Go: Like most parts of the northern India, Amritsar too can be best seen from October to March. Temperatures range from 34° C to 15°C in summers and in winter it varies between 18°C and 0°C.

Golden Temple: It is the main attraction that draws people from all over the country and abroad. In the centre of the temple complex is the Harimandir Sahib, built in marble and has a golden dome. The temple came to be known as the Golden Temple when Maharaja Ranjit Singh rebuilt it after its destruction by Ahmed Shah Abdali, and embellished it with marble, copper and gold leaf. The complex has four entrances, which signify open nature of the site and that travelers from all directions are welcome.

The Golden Temple is surrounded by a pool of water known as Sarovar, which is believed to have amrit (holy water) due to its healing powers. This is how the city got its name- Amrit-Sar. At the first floor of the temple the Akhand Path (continuous reading of the Granth Sahib) is conducted. The famous Sheesh Mahal is located on the top floor. Soulful notes sing by raggis flow in the air from here.

Harimandir Sahib: Perched at the center of the pool is the Golden Temple known as the Harimandir Sahib or Darbar Sahib. The foundation of the Harmandir Sahib was laid by Pir Mian Mir of Lahore on the request of Arjan Dev. Adi Granth Sahib was first installed here on August 16, 1604.

Akal Takht: The place where Guru Granth Sahib is put to bed every night after an elaborate (see what to do) procession brings the holy book on beautifully decorated Palki. Built by Guru Hargobind, the Akal Takht is also the place where Shiromani Gurudwara Prabandhak Committee (SGPC) meets.

Durgiani Temple Complex: Not too far from the Golden Temple is the Durgiani Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga. The temple is quite similar to the Golden Temple with the temple located in the centre the pool. The complex also has a Bhairon Mandir and Hanuman Mandir.

Maharana Ranjit Singh Museum: Housed in the summer palace of Maharaja Ranjit Singh - the museum is a must visit. It has a large collection of guns, swords, paintings, and some rare letters written to Maharaja Ranjit Singh by various English officers. The letters are in urdu, which makes it difficult to find out what exactly is written and no caretakers in the museum knows Urdu. There is also a replica of Kohinoor crown in the museum. Photography inside the museum is strictly probihibited.

Wagah Border: I am not very sure if it should be included in the Sightseeing section as it is more of an experience but nevertheless, Wagah is roughly 30 km from Amritsar and a must visit to see the passion and spirit among people for their country. It’s like a cricket match between India and Pakistan. It is about beating the retreat ceremony when flags are removed on both sides (India & Pakistan) at dusk among much fanfare with patriotic songs and slogans. On any given day you’ll see large number of people turning up to see and experience the event.

Amritsar is a fascinating city for someone religiously inclined but it is equally good for the one who takes pleasure in exploring new places and eating well. There are plenty of things one can do in Amritsar.

Explore Amritsar

The first and foremost is to pay your mandatory visit to the Harminder Sahib, take a dip in the holy pond and check out the food (langar) served in the complex. It is an experience in itself, every hour thousands of people eat langar in big halls and the way the community manages the whole affair is amazing. The moment you walk towards big halls, many devotees in the service at the complex will offer you a big steel plate, spoon and bowl. As you enter the hall, you see the spirit and passion with which the whole community works; even I saw a boy barely 10 year old serving food to devotees with much enthusiasm and gusto.

You sit on a mat in a line and the food is served, which is basically dal, sabzi and roti. Water is served in big bowls through iron buckets. These buckets are modified, they have a pipe attached and are covered partially on top. Once the food is over, you have to carry your plate, spoon and bowl outside and there will be devotees in service who will collect the utensils from you. It is very systematic, first only spoons will be collected, you go litter further and there will be Sikhs collecting plates and finally a litter further, bowls are collected.

Once Golden Temple is visited you can check other temples and gurudwaras in the vicinity. In fact there are many places of tourist interest in Amritsar, which one can explore- the prominent among them are Jalianwaala Bagh and Maharaja Ranjit Singh Museum.

Let’s Eat
If you have not checked the famous Amritsar cuisine, your trip to the city is like tea without sugar. Try the famous Amritsari naan, lassi and the renowned Amritsari fish. All are worth the experiment. If you love north Indian food, I’m sure you are going to love it.

Good Buys

Queens Road and the Mall are the main bazaars of Amritsar. Amritsari Jootis are famous world over. Other exciting things that you can check at the shops are kurtas, nishans, Sikh literature and ceremonial talwars. Also don’t forget to buy the ubiquitous papads and pickles.

The Patriotic fervor at Wagah

Once important places of tourist interest in Amritsar are explored head some 30 km West of the city to Wagah in the evening. The border comes alive in the evening as people from different corners converge to experience and enjoy the beating the retreat ceremony.

Reaching Amritsar

Amritsar, the city of the Golden Temple is easy to reach and comfortably accessible from different corners of the country.

You can reach Amritsar by taking a flight to Amritsar, which will land the Raja Sansi Airport. The airport is approximately 10 km from the main city and taxis are easily available to and from the airport. Amritsar is well connected with major cities in India.

Train journey is another good mode of transport to reach Amritsar. Many trains run to and from Amritsar. There are direct trains from Delhi, Kolkata and Mumbai to Amritsar. Many other trains also pass through Amritsar. The Samjoutha Express that connects India & Pakistan by rail also runs from Amritsar to Lahore in Pakistan.

Amritsar may also be reached by road. The Golden City is well connected to all the major cities of northern India. One may take a bus or hire a car to reach Amritsar by road. Grand Trunk Road connects Delhi to Amritsar. Regular buses are available from I.S.B.T. Delhi to Amritsar.