Destination Features

Situated in the north-west Himalayas at an altitude of 2130 metres, Shimla is the capital of Himachal Pradesh. Its salubrious climate, easy accessibility and numerous attractions have made it one of the most popular hill stations in northern India. Barely two centuries ago, the area occupied by modern day Shimla was a dense forest. The Jakhoo temple along with a few scattered houses were the only signs of civilisation. The town came into being in the first quarter of the nineteenth century. It was in 1819 that the assistant political agent of the hill states Lt Ross set up the first British residence in Shimla. Soon other officers followed suit and some four decades later it became the summer capital of the British. The decision was taken by Sir John Lawrence who was appointed the Viceroy in 1863. His most convincing argument was more work could be done in Shimla in one day than the government could do in five days in Calcutta. And the building of the road and the railway line all added up to the growth of the population. Always a honeymooner's paradise, today Shimla is fast becoming a preferred destination for corporates to hold conferences and meetings. Said NC Somaiah, general manager, Oberoi Cecil, "Multinationals are sending their executives here for a few days of training and outdoor activities. We have hosted conferences for GE, Ogilvy & Mather, BPCL and Eicher to name a few. They come here to mix business with leisure." Concedes Sanjay Thakur, owner of Combermere, another fine address in Shimla. "With Chandigarh fast becoming an industrial hub of north India, more and more businessmen and executives are travelling to Shimla either for leisure or for meetings. With the Nathpa Jhakri power project coming up, we see a lot of people connected with the project halting here in transit. Ericsson is setting up the exchange for Airtel and executives of these companies often come here." When I alighted from the lift at the Mall, the town was just waking up, yawning. No, people here are not racing against time. Their laid-back attitude with a smile hanging loose on the lips made me wonder what are rigmaroles of the city for.

Gone are the days of Raj, but its architectural splendour exists as part of Shimla's rich legacy. Walk down the Mall, either taking the western arm or the eastern arm and an assortment of architecture in Norman Baronial style, Neo-Gothic style or Swiss Bavarian style greets your eyes. As I walked with Seth, it gave me a feeling of travelling back in time. In spite of changes and considerable growth since India became independent, Shimla is reminiscent of an attempt to build an English town in India. The Scandal Point in the Mall remains the hub of Shimla’s social life. The place was so named because saying goes that a British Commander-in-Chief's daughter eloped from the spot with the Maharaja of Patiala. However, according to historians it is more likely that the name is the result of it long being the place where people gathered for conversation. A landmark architecture on the main mall is the Gaiety Theatre, which was opened in 1887. Renowned for its fine acoustics, it witnessed the histrionics of famous personalities like writer Rudyard Kipling, artist Amrita Shergil, famous singer KL Saigal, and actors like the famous Kendalls and Anupam Kher. Further down the Mall, just short of the lift is Combermere bridge which was the first construction of a public nature in the town. Himachal State Museum, perched atop Inverarm, is an old colonial building. Ancient historical sculptures, pahari miniature paintings, philately, coins and a separate Gandhi gallery reflect the cultural heritage of the Shimla. It has a historical letter box that the British got from Dharamshala.

Another building worth a dekho is the Viceregal Lodge. Built during the viceroyalty of Lord Dufferin (between 1884-1888), this five-storey building is a magnificent example of Victorian architecture. The lush green gardens sprawl across 100 acres. Now, it houses the Indian Institute of Advance Studies.

A 20 minutes walk down from the Viceregal Lodge and you come to the Kennedy Chowk, past the Cecil Hotel. A road downhill (there’s a road plaque) leads to the Glen, which offers an excellent walk through rustling woods. About 1.5 km down the line, the path of the glen branches off the main road. Another kilometre along a narrow trail will take you to this wooded ravine where several tiny brooks pour their water into a large perennial stream. This is a Reserve forest and is one of Shimla's oldest and popular picnic spot. The oaks, rhododendrons, deodar and pines stand huddled together. The undergrowth is luxuriant too. You can see pheasants, black partridges, yellow throated martins, and if lucky barking deer, foxes and leopard cats.

A wide road from the Scandal Point goes up towards the ridge. The level ground at the ridge is the favourite evening rendezvous for visitors. Spread across 12 kms along the ridge, which overlooks terraced hillsides, cultivations and dense forests, Shimla covers seven hills - Prospect Hill, which has the temple of Kamna Devi, Summer Hill, Observatory Hill, Inverarm, which houses the state museum, Bantony, Jakhoo hill and Elysium. I stood on the ridge staring at the verdant green slopes covered with fir, rhododendron, pine and the Himalayan oak. Nestling among the foliage are traditional homesteads. The Kinner range with snow-capped crest runs in a semi-circle. A soft soothing breeze caressed me as the serenity seeped in. Perched on the Ridge is Christ Church consecrated in 1857 and embellished with some fine stained glass. The fresco that surrounds it was designed by writer Rudyard Kipling's father, Lockwood Kipling. Adjacent to the church is the neo-Tudor structure of the library.

There are some beautiful places around Shimla. The roads, often laced with orchards, wind through undulating hills robed in pine and cedar forests, providing wonderful views of wide floored valleys and the magnificent Himalayas. You can hire a taxi or book conducted tours offered by Himachal tourism.

• Kufri: An hour's drive from Shimla situated at an altitude of 2622m, it offers an excellent view of Badrinath, Kedarnath, Pirpanjal and Shivalik ranges. It is famous for Yak riding. A winter sports capital, it offers excellent facilities for skiing.
• Chail: Built on the three hills, the former capital of the Maharaj of Patiala is situated about 45 kms from Shimla. It's a charming tourist resort, well known for its cricket pitch, the highest in the world, wildlife and Sidh Baba ka Mandir. Walking through the majestic pines, or excellent view of Choor Chandni and twinkling lights of Shimla at night can be a memorable experience.
• Naldehra: Originally called Naldeo, it is 23 km from Shimla and offers a breathtaking view of thick pine forest . It has India's oldest nine-hole golf course laid out by the British viceroy Lord Curzon. It also hosts the annual Sippi fair in June. A leisurely walk through the pines acts as a tranquilizer.
• Narkanda: Situated on the Hindustan Tibet Highway at a distance of 64 kms from Shimla, it is at an altitude of 2708 m. It offers a panoramic view of the inner Himalayas. Eight kms from Narkanda is the Hattu peak at the height of 3300 m, which has a choice of ski slopes - a beginners' run, a slalom slope and sharper dissents for the seasoned skier.
• Pabbar Valley: The drive to Hatkoti and Rohru in the Pabbar valley will take around 4-5 hours. Fruit laden orchards border the route. The ancient temple of Hatkoti is situated on the bank of Pabbar river, while Rohru is an excellent place for fresh water fishing.
• Sankat Mochan: This is a temple located 7 kms from Shimla at an Altitude of 1851 m. It is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and commands an excellent view of Shimla.
• Kasauli: About 77 kms from Shimla, this small hill station is encircled by woods of pine, oak and horse chestnut. On one hand, it offers a spectacular view of the snow-capped Himalayas and on the other a panoramic view of the well planned city of Chandigarh.
• Tattapani: At a distance of 51 kms from Shimla, past Mashobra and Naldehra are the hot sulphur springs of Tattapani which are known for their therapeutic powers. From here drive 10 kms to Karsog, which is surrounded by beautiful orchards.

Shimla has no dearth of hotels - a total of 280 to be precise. There are some 30 hotels in the mid-market category whose tariff ranges between Rs 650-1600 and an assortment of 5-star, 4-star, heritage and boutique properties.

• The Cecil, (Grand Heritage property) Chaura Maidan, Shimla. Tel:91-177-20 4848, email: www.thececil.com
  The 79 key property is located at the quiet end of the famous Mall and is an ideal base from which to discover the unique beauty of the mountain ranges, pine and cedar forests. A fireplace at the entrance offers a warm welcome, while the rooms overlook the Himalayan ranges. Cecil’s decor epitomise classic elegance. It has a heated indoor swimming pool, a health spa and offers tailor-made flexible conference packages. Tariff: Between Rs 6,000 -9,000
• Clarke’s Hotel, 4 star The Mall, Shimla, Tel: 91 -177-25 1010
  Clarke’s Hotel embodies the charm and elegance of yesteryear with conveniences of today. The rooms are spacious and tastefully furnished. The conference hall can accommodate up to 100 persons and is equipped with modern facilities. Tariff ranges between Rs 4650 and 4990.
• Asia The Dawn, 4-star, Tara Devi, Shimla, Tel: 91-177-231162/63/64/65
  This 38-room property offers all modern facilities. There’s a health club with Jacuzzi, steam, sauna and massage services, a gift shop and 24-hour currency exchange facility.
• Hotel Combermere
  It is the only hotel connected from Circular Road to Mall Road by its own lift. Centrally heated, the rooms are tastefully decorated. All the 43 rooms open to a balcony, while the suites have private terraces and mini bars. Tariff: Rs 1800 - 4000
• Hotel Holiday Home, Tel: 0177- 212890
  Himachal Tourism’s flagship hotel is conveniently located and offers comprehensive facilities. There is a 120-cover restaurant serving Chinese, Indian, Continental and Himachali cuisine. The best ones in the mid-market category which offer a comfortable stay are Ashiana Regency, Baljee's Regency, Crystal Palace, Harsha, Lord's Grey and Pine View. Tariff varies between Rs 700 -1600.
• The Chalets, Naldehra
  This boutique hotel extends from a thickly forested mountain spur and has a view of a deep valley. In fact, every window offers a different view. It has been built from fir logs imported from Finland. Privacy and comfort are the hallmark of every log-home. It also offers a range of activities golf, white water rafting on the Sutlej, horse riding etc. Special 2 nights /3 days packages are on offer which can be extended up to 7 nights/8 days.

Surprisingly, the Ashiana restaurant on the Ridge, run by HPTDC, is the only place that offers Himachali cuisine (three dishes to be precise), while Dominos and Barista have made inroads. Otherwise, you get all the regular tandoor and curry items, Chinese and a wide choice of drinks. For a quick bite try the varieties of pastries. Check out the following joints for good nosh. Pure Vegetarian: Nalini in the Mall, Deepak Bhojanalaya and Agarwalji's in the middle bazaar area. Fast Food Joints: Dominos, Barista, Beekays, City Point, Food Dotcom. Bakeries: City Point, Trishool, Pastry Garden, Baljees Restaurants: Devicos, Fascination, Alfa, New Plaza (middle bazaar)