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Put your fingers to keyboard and write a well crafted travelogue. Take part in the
India Discovered Travelogue Writing Contest and win prizes every week! |
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Trek to Gandhi Sarovar |
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Travelogue on Gandhi Sarovar, Uttaranchal |
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Posted on: Friday, August 01, 2008 at 16:21 |
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Views: 499
| Votes: 5
| Comments: 3 |
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In the first week of January, while finalising itinerary of Yatra 2007 scheduled for May, did I include Gandhi Sarovar? Yes, may be the thrill and excitement to discover the unknown. I did some google search on this topic. But the results were disappointing. There was practically no written account on Gandhi Sarovar trek. A few dull pictures were found, which did not inspire me at all. I quote from one of the web site “An important place near Kedarnath is the Gandhi Sarovar, which was earlier known as Chorabhari Tal. The lake is about three kilometers away in the valley formed by the Kedarnath massif. This lake has been renamed Gandhi Sarovar after Mahatma Gandhi's ashes were immersed in the Lake. According to the legend this is where Yudhishthir, the eldest of the Pandavas, is said to have departed to heaven.”
The 13th day of May 2007 remains a very special day in my life for getting a chance to experience myriad of emotions like, the sense of adventure, the thrill, the fear, the exultation, the pain and an intense sense of achievement. After coming to Kedarnath to do the trek to Gandhi Sarovar, I almost regretted it. Somewhere near the iron bridge over river Mandakini, is a signboard for Gandhi Sarovar indicating it to be 3.5 km in the direction behind the Kedarnath temple. After crossing the temple area and walking across the Bhugyals (green medows), we did not find any trek route. At a distance river Mandakini was visible with rocks scattered across its roaring turbulent stream. That was not encouraging at all. Back to the bridge, when Manojit and Rajib were making ISD calls, I made enquires with some local habitants regarding Gandhi Sarovar trek. One fellow pointed across the hill and showed a different track and said it was good enough for trekking. Yet another fellow warned us of the danger of glacier bursting across the route. I was puzzled and went to bed with indecision in my mind regarding next mornings trek to Gandhi Sarovar.
Following morning we woke up very early. It was a glorious sunlit day. The air was crisp and cold. We put on all our woollens and had a hurried discussion on trek to Gandhi Sarovar. Manojit and Rajib being what they are, I had very little option but to accompany them to the totally unknown trek to Chorabari glacier where in nestles the Gandhi Sarovar. The initial 2 km trek was quite comfortable with broad stone paved path. Then all of a sudden we came near a glacier almost 30 ft broad and sloping at 60 degrees across the hill. I got my first bout of fright here! I pleaded with Manojit to turn back and retreat to Kedarnath. Manojit did not reply. But Rajib had other ideas. He wanted to move ahead and even offered his trekking stick to me. Enthused, Manojit tried to soothe my nerves by telling “the glacier is over the normal foot track and nothing will happen”. Meanwhile Rajib crossed the glacier cautiously and was on the opposite side. I had no option but to tip toe across the glacier with one hand supporting the vertical ice pile, the other hand supporting the stick embedded in ice and careful stride over the foot marks left by others on the slippery ice track. A wrong step would send me plummeting down the hard icy slope to river Mandakini a few hundred feet below! Once on the other side of glacier, I heaved a sigh of relief. However a new thought kept worrying me, whether I would be able to return back safely along the same track? To add to my agony we had to cross three more glaciers. Having done the hard work for one hour, we did not find any trace of Gandhi Sarovar. Time was running out. We were to do a return trek of 14 km on the same day from Kedarnath to Gaurikund. We lamented the fact that, we did not have a guide with us. Then a small conference ensued and it was decided that Rajib the youngest and fittest member of the group will move ahead and signal us from top if the Gandhi Sarovar was visible. Rajib vanished for nearly 15 minutes but it seemed like eternity. As luck would have it, he waved from the hill top. Yes, the Gandhi Sarovar was discovered! Till then there were not a single soul on sight apart from three of us. Suddenly we found a youngster trekking up from a different route. From his gait we could say for sure that he was a local resident. He waved and signalled at us to continue trek along the same route. We scrambled to the hill top after trekking another half a km. And what a fantastic view from top! The beautiful frozen Gandhi Sarovar lying in a bowl shaped valley, reflecting the glorious Kedar Dome snow peaks. The lake was surrounded by snow on all directions. Chorabari glacier extended right up to the base of Kedar dome. The great Kedar dome appeared to be so near as if we could touch it. For a few seconds Manojit, Rajib and myself were mesmerized. We were in unison with the great divine mother nature. After our trance was broken, Rajib had a quick conversation with his father and went down towards the Sarovar in knee deep snow. Manojit stood there for a few minutes undecided and followed suit. I stationed myself perched up on hill taking the opportunity to record this unique event on my digicam. The snow pile near me was three feet deep due to recent snowfalls; so unpolluted, so blissful and so divine. After nearly half an hour Manojit and Rajib trudged back in knee deep snow. We had a few photo sessions with Kedar Dome and Gandhi Sarovar in the background.
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In our return trek to Kedarnath more drama were to unfold. I was prepared to trek back to Kedarnath by our usual route but Rajib had other ideas. He took a shortcut - a detour and descended down from the hill along a goat track which would take him ultimately to Kedarnath after crossing river Mandakini. Manojit with his paternal concern, followed suit and descended down about 20 feet and waved at me to follow the new route; but I felt it will be too risky for me to negotiate through steep slope. I made my decision and urged Manojit to follow me by the usual route. Manojit watching Rajib disappear at a distance reluctantly agreed. The glacier was not far of. I took the lead and half way through the glacier I lost my foothold and fell on hard ice with thud, with a severe impact on my shoulder. I hit the panic buttons, “am I rolling down the icy slope?” I found myself stuck right on the track! I managed to pull myself back on the icy track and thanked Almighty that one mishap had been averted. A few steps later, once again I slipped in the ice track but somehow clawed back to my feet. Reaching on the other side of glacier, I looked out for Manojit. Manojit while not finding the regular track struggled along the goat track to approach the glacier and was, slipping, straining, holding on to stumps and roots of small bushes with all his might. After some tough efforts he reached the glacier and crossed it. We crossed three more glaciers without any incident. The bird's eye view of Kedarnath town in clear bright morning appeared like a painted picture. The wild flowers on the trek route were in abundance, particularly the yellow and violet variety.
On reaching BSS we found Rajib relaxing under the blanket and quilts. He informed us that while crossing the river Mandakini, hopping from one rock to another he lost his foot hold and got one foot upto knee deep into the ice cold water. Manojit was a greatly relieved father. Now it was time to pack up for our return journey to Gaurikund. Hunger pangs made us to go post haste to dhaba called Kedarnath Mishtan where hot Samosas, Jalebis and Puri Bhaji was tempting. For the first time Manojit threw caution to the winds and dug himself into piping hot samosas and jalebis. We followed suit. Saying adeau to Kedarnath, we resumed our return trek to Gaurikund. The morning trek to Chorabari Tal was a bit of a strain and I had a swollen toe. The toe pain continued right upto Gaurikund and was agonising. I was the slowest of the group. As usual Manojit and Rajib trekked as fast as possible. Myself and Palkar reached Gaurikund at around 4 pm. We had bun and butter for nourishment in one of the dhabas. That also gave us a chance to rest our tired limbs. We staggered out of the restaurent, and to our dismay the Ambassador car which was supposed to pick us up was not visible! Gaurikund can at best be called a chaotic place with vehicles trying to out do each other for parking and policemen hounding them out and pilgrims yelling at everything. Reluctantly we trekked another half a km to the car parking area, but that appeared to be a futile atempt. We trekked back to Gaurikund to make a call to driver. As bad luck would have it, I misplaced driver's mobile number. We were back to square one. I phoned the Taxi company person called Naginder. But alas he too failed to retrieve the driver's mobile number. Desparately we started to enquire with some drivers whose jeeps were stationed there, whether they would take us to Soneprayag, a possible waiting place for the car. Not much response there also. When our tension level was at the peak, there appeared our angel the White Amby with Manojit and Rajib on back seat comfortably dozing. We safely reach Chandrapuri by evening for an overnight's stay.
Post script :
Trekkers may find it easy to do this trek once those glaciers on trek path to Gandhi Sarovar have melted. The month of July to October may be more comfortable. If you are an adventurous type then May is the best time. However it is better to take a guide, a proper walking stick and shoes with good grip and of course loads of courage! After having made it and showing the video clips to some of my friends they commented that it looked like Switzerland. Well, I only said to them that our Himalayan destinations are the best in the world. I do not mind repeating it even if it sounds chiche “ East or West, Himalaya is the best”
Acknowledgement : I am grateful to Dr. Manojit Lodh and his son Dr. Rajib Lodh from UK for giving me the moral support and encouragement at the appropriate moment during trek my to Gandhi Sarovar. |
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Factfile |
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Factfile - Information: How to reach, what to do etc etc..
Gandhi Sarovar
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From Gaurikund reach Kedarnath 14 km by pony or trek it on foot. From Kedarnath trek 4 km to reach Gandhi Sarovar. On reaching Gandhi Sarovar be in unison with divine mother nature. You will relish the memory rest of your life. |
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Factfile |
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Factfile |
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Factfile - Accomodation: Hotels, and Where to stay at
Gandhi Sarovar
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Gaurikund : stay at GMVNL rest house / Bharat Sevashram Sangha.
Kedarnath : stay at GMVNL rest house / Bharat Sevashram Sangha.
At Gandhi Sarovar there are no dwellings. You need to pitch your own tent.
Best option is to do return trek on the same day. |
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Factfile |
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This Travelogue has 5 Votes
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Vote Now! |
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3 Comments
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| | Alumnitrek said... | Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 | | Hi Lovable Joey
The Gandhi Sarovar was earlier known as Chorabari Tal as it is situated on the snout of Chorabari glacier at the foothill of
Kedar Dome Himalayan peak. Thanks for your encouraging words |
| | | Lovable Joey said... | Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2008 | | Gandhi Sarovar - now thats a strange name for a high-altitude glacial lake... what comes to mind on hearing the name is some big lake in some big city thats been christened lately post-elections ;) ...Nice to have had a chance to experience it through your log.. all the best for the contest. |
| | | Bob Symn said... | Posted: Friday, August 01, 2008 | | Lovely pics... but to me you guys are risky travellers..I believe it is wise to take a guide along...but loved reading your travelogue |
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This Travelogue has 5 Votes
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Vote Now! |
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3 Comments
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