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Must have Travel Experiences: Mystical Khajuraho

 
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Known for their erotic sculptures, Khajuraho temples in Madhya Pradesh offer a wonderful travel experience
| Khajuraho Temples | Things to do | Dance Festival |Getting there | Excursions from Khajuraho |

A Unesco World Heritage Site, there is more to Khajuraho than just its erotic carvings. A long forgotten non descript village – Khajuraho shot to limelight soon after it was discovered by a British Engineer, T.S. Burt in the mid-19th century (1838). More than 180 years after its discovery, the Khajuraho temples continue to evoke curiousity and interest in the travellers.

Chandela rulers built the Khajuraho temples between the 9th and 10th centuries. A total of the initial 85 temples, today only 20 temples remain. Though the temples of Khajuraho roughly fall into three distinct groups- Western Group, Eastern Group and Southern Group, they belong to two different religions – Hinduism and Jainism and are known to strike a perfect balance between architecture and sculpture.

Khajuraho Temples

Its architectural style is very different from the pattern that was followed during that period. Though the temples are built in the typical 'Nagara' style of architecture, those of Khajuraho follow a fairly consistent design pattern – there is no enclosure wall surrounding these temples and each temple stands on a high and solid raised masonry platform. Furthermore, each of the chief compartments has its own roof, grouped in such a way that the highest is in the centre, the lowest over the portico. The three main compartments of the temples are the entrance or ardha mandapa, the assembly hall, or mandapa and an inner sanctum, garbha-griha. The axis of the temples is from East to West, with the entrance on the East, approached by a flight of steps. The temples consist of successive waves of higher and higher towers culminating in soaring spires, which top the sanctum.

The temples in Khajuraho are categorised into three groups according to their location – Western Group of Temples, Eastern Group of Temples and Southern Group of Temples. Of these the Western group is the best known, for the largest and most typical Khajuraho temples belong to this group.

Khajuraho Temples and other Tourist Attractions
Khajuraho Temples
Western Group of Temples: Most of the sightseeing tour starts from the Western Group. A ticket of Rs.10/- is what it takes to enter the complex, which has more than 9 small and big temples. At the entrance, you may take the Audio Tour for Rs. 50/- (available both in Hindi & English). There are sites marked and you need to follow the sites to make sense what the voice on Walkman is saying. However, the audio tour is just for the Lakshmana Temple. 

The Lakshmana Temple and the Varaha Temple are the two temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu. While the Varaha Temple has a huge 9ft statue of Vishnu in the varaha incarnation, the lintel over the entrance of the Lakshmana Temple shows the holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, along with Lakshmi. Its sanctum is richly carved and has a three-headed idol of Vishnu's incarnations- Narsimha and Varaha.

Khajuraho Temples

The Kandariya Mahadev Temple is one of the most important temples of Khajuraho. Symbolised as representing Mount Kailash, - the abode of Lord Shiva, the Kandariya Mahadev temple is perfectly symmetrical. It soars 31 meters high and its main shrine has an exquisitely carved entrance arch with a multitude of themes. It has sculptures depicting of musicians playing different instruments, lovers in fond embrace, huge crocodiles, winged gods and goddesses. Also noteworthy are its ceilings and pillars, which have intricately carved capitals

Things to do

- Watch Light & Sound Show
- Shop at Mrignayni (MP Tourism)
- Eat at Siddarths Open Air Restaurant

Also in the western group is the Chaunsat Yogini Temple. The temple quadrangular in plan is dedicated to goddesses Kali, whose idol unfortunately no longer exists. Only 35 of the original 64 cells remain and no image of Kali has survived. Another Kali Temple (originally dedicated to Vishnu) is the Devi Jagadambe Temple.

Except for the Mantangeshwara Temple, none of the other temples are used for worshipping. The Mantangeshwara temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and has an 8ft Shivling, which is believed to be as much inside the ground as it is outside! Other temples within the Western Group include the Chitragupta Temple (Sun God), Vishwantah Temple (Similar in plan to the Kandariya Mahadev, with a massive, 6 ft high Nandi bull facing the shrine), Parwati Temple and Laxmi Temple.

Khajuraho TemplesEastern Group of Temples: Hindu and Jain temples form the bulk of the Eastern Group, which lies close to the Khajuraho village. While the Brahma, Vamana and Javari Temples are the main Hindu temples in the group, the Jain temples are represented by the Adinath and Parsvanath Temple. Of the two, the temple of Parswanath is the largest. It has a beautiful idol of Lord Mahaveer and its sculptures on the northern outer wall make it the finest in the group.

North of the Parswanath Temple is the more modestly sized Adinath Temple. Though not as popular as the other temples, the Ghantai temple so named after a bell-and-chain ornamentation on its pillars has an interesting structural variation. The temple located to the south-east of the village of Khajuraho has an eight-armed Jain god riding the sacred bird Garuda carved at the entrance.


Chaturbhuj Temple Khajuraho-Eastern Group

Southern Group of Temples: Lying 5 km from the Khajuraho village, the Southern Group of Temples comprises the Chaturbhuj and the Duladeo Temple. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the Chaturbhuj Temple is the only temple, where you won’t find any erotic sculptures while the Duladeo Temple dedicated to Shiva has on the base of its door 9 planets flanked by the Ganga and Yamuna on either side. It is believed that the Sun sets only after paying respects to the lord Shiva, which is why the temple door faces west.

Khajuraho Museum: Located a few distances from the Matangeshwar Temple is the Khajuraho Musuem. Two seated Lions with thick curly manes at the entrance of the Khajuraho ASI Museum welcome you as you make your way to the museum. A huge sculpture of Lord Ganesh dancing is next that grabs your attention you step in to the hall. In this sculpture, the deity has been depicted with three pairs of arms, each arm carrying one iconographic emblem.

Khajuraho Dance Festival

A must watch event - the Khajuraho dance festival is held every year with the temples as a backdrop in February/March.

There is also the marvelous figure of Hari Hara - a masterpiece of Hindu iconography, it depicts a deity who on close observation appears to be Shiva (on the right) and Vishnu (on the left) fused together. The museum also houses an image of the Shakya Muni, said to be only one of its kind in Khajuraho. Here, the Buddha is represented sitting in his Bhumisparsa Mudra or the earth-touching pose. Also on view is the Uma-Maheshwara, frozen in perpetual embrace; a seated Bhairava and Sadashiva; a sculpture of an upright Surya, who is shown riding his chariot drawn by seven horses in the colors of the rainbow; the Jain goddess Ambika under a mango tree laden with fruit; and the upright Adinath, the first Jain Tirthankar.


There are also several sculptures showcasing the different manifestations of Vishnu. One such beautiful piece is that of a four-headed Vishnu. Also housed in the museum are the beautiful friezes and panels dating to the 10th and 12th century and the Surasundaris and apsaras - beautiful women who inhabit every nook and corner of the Khajuraho temples

Open from 10 am -5pm except Fridays
Entrance Fee: Rs 5/- (Children up to 15 years free)


Khajuraho Dance Festival

Reaching Khajuraho & best time to go

By Air: Both Indian and Kingfisher operate flights to Khajuraho from Delhi.

By Rail: Mahoba (64 km) and Harpalpur (94 km). Jhansi (175 km) and Satna (117 km) are the nearest railheads. Update: Khajuraho has a got a railway station of its own now and one can take a direct train to Khajuraho from Delhi and Varanasi to start with.

By Road: There are regular buses plying from Jhansi Railway Station /Bus Stand to Khajuraho

See driving directions to Khajuraho

Best Time to Go: September - March

Excursions from Khajuraho
• Dhubela Museum: 57 km from Khajuraho, the museum located on the bank of a lake houses a wide variety of Shakti Cult sculptures.
• Rajgarh Palace: 25 km from Khajuraho it’s a 150 year old palace now converted into a heritage hotel.
• Ranguan Lake: 25 km from Khajuraho. Ideal angling and picnic spot.
• Benisagar Dam: 7 km. Picnic spot.
• Raneh & Pandav Falls: 20 km & 34 km from Khajuraho respectively, Beautiful picnic spots.
• Panna Tiger Reserve: 40 km away from Khajuraho, Panna Tiger Reserve is home to a good number of birds and wild animals include the elusive Tiger.

 


About Khajuraho: Khajuraho Information and Fact File
Altitude 283 meters
Temp
Summer 45 (Max) & 30(Min) Degrees Celsius
Winter 28 (Max) & 2 (Min) Degrees Celsius
Best time to Go October – March
Monsoon July to September
Summer April to June
Clothes Cottons in summer and light to moderate woolens in winter
Nearest Airport Khajuraho
Nearest Railway Station Main railway station is Jhansi Junction, 175 km; Satna, the other railway station is 117 km away
Bus Station Khajuraho
Hospital & Doctor

There are dispensaries equipped with all medical facilities in Khajuraho.

Places to see Lakhmana Temple, Kandariya Mahadeo Temple, Devi Jagdamba Temple, Parsvanath Temple, Ghantai Temple, Adinath Temple, Vamana Temple…
   
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